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A white object appears slightly blue with a cold color temperature and it looks slightly orange with a warm color temperature. White balance is the relative warmth or coolness of white light. If you would like to know more about white balance, check out this article on Cambridge in Color. White balance could be a whole separate tutorial on its own, so I will keep this really brief. Be sure not to bump the focus ring while recomposing! Recompose the shot if necessary and zoom in on the LCD to double check you focus is accurate. #STARTRAIL AFFINITY ISO#A 2-3 minute exposure at high ISO and wide aperture is enough to be able to see which direction the stars are moving and allow one to imagine what the final shot will look like. If you are not using film then I suggest doing a test shot which aids in composing your final shot. When composing the shot try not to include any direct light sources (e.g. ![]() #STARTRAIL AFFINITY MANUAL#So now you should have your camera focused and set to manual focus (MF) and the shot roughly composed. Once you have achieved the glorious state of “in focus”, be sure to set it to MF or manual focus before starting your exposure or it will start searching again when you start the exposure and you will lose your focus and have to repeat the whole process again. If not, go lay the flashlight on the ground at the base of what you are shooting and focus on that. Some lenses will not have those markings, so shining the light on the foreground subject while using the AF function may work if the flashlight is bright. I find that it is fairly safe to just set the focus to infinity if it is a wide angle or fisheye lens, right from the start. If you are using a wide angle lens, the foreground object and the stars will probably both be in focus even at a very wide aperture. If you are including foreground objects, I suggest making sure that they are in focus. In the dark, it is not easy to get the AF to lock on to anything but do not worry, as there are several solutions to this. Roughly compose your shot and set the focus. ![]() I will start with the basics that do not change whether you are using an analog SLR or a DSLR.īefore dialing in any settings you should go ahead and mount your camera onto a tripod. There are multiple ways to go about shooting star trails. You will want to know how bright the moon is, the moon rise and set times as well its location in the sky (there are many smartphone and iPad apps for this).Ī moon can work to your advantage lighting up the foreground for you but it can also reduce the number of visible stars, or just be in the way of what you are trying to shoot. You should also check the moon schedule before heading out. It really pays off to do some research before embarking on a shoot, especially if you have never seen the location in the day before. ![]() A darker sky means a greater number of visible stars. Though it is possible to capture star trails in town, it is much easier if you try this far away from any city lights. You may choose to add light to these features with a flashlight or keep them as silhouettes against the star-filled sky. It may be an abandoned building, large infrastructure like a radio tower or a bridge, or some natural features like rock formations or big trees. #STARTRAIL AFFINITY FREE#Have you tried Sequator? It's a free download.I tend to look for locations that are have some foreground interest. Affinity on the M1 with my setup only allowed 25'ish stacks at a time so very frustrating. Also use a different focal length as startrails even work with tele lenses but they are getting more 'straight'.ĭepending on many factors the processing time for a complete startrail can be everything from less than an hour to several days. #STARTRAIL AFFINITY HOW TO#There are different methods of how to stack the startrails and you can also close the small gaps between the individual pictures with some free software.Īs startrails are a little bit 'static' an interesting foreground is important.ĭon't point the camera only to the North, but also test the other orientations to gather experience. Turning on the 'distortion correction' in your raw converter before stacking can result in an ugly concentric pattern after the stacking. Having many startrail images I process them in stacks of 100 or so. I often compress the startrails with the DNG converter as I haven't seen any degradations. The foreground can be an HDR or taken with a smaller aperture for greater depth-of-field. I sort my startrails into appropriate folder (e.g. ![]()
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